Feb 1 - 4: Mexico City and Taxco, Mexico
[View Photos]Just before starting a new assignment at T-Mobile in Seattle, I took a weekend trip to Mexico City with Gabriela and Isabel. If you love Tacos al Pastor (which is my all time favorite type of taco), this is where those little gifts from heaven were born. Tizoncito is a chain that claims to have invented the al pastor taco. They are located all over Mexico City (La Condesa, Polanco, etc.). At one sitting, I managed to eat nine of them (they are fairly small tacos), but I was beaten by Gaby's fifteen year old cousin who ate thirteen!
Day 1 - Centro Historico; Anthropological Museum; Polanco:
The first stop was El Palacio de Bellas Artes. Many would consider this the most beautiful building in Mexico City, where all the arts can be enjoyed. Built with Carrara marble, it has a combination of art nouveau and art deco. If you are interested on Mexican artists you definitely need to visit the 2nd and 3rd floors where magnificent murals from Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco and Tamayo are exhibited. There are some temporary exhibitions of modern art during the year in the galleries of the 2nd floor. Ballet and opera are performed in this theater. And something you definitely can’t miss is the gigantic curtain made of stained glass depicting the Popocatepetl and Ixchtlaziuatl volcanoes and the valley of Mexico.Afterwards, walk down the street “16 de septiembre” (Mexican Independence Day – I think there is a street with this name in every Mexican city). The architecture here is beautiful with Spanish influence and a little bit of French. You'll eventually reach a huge open space with a monstrous Mexican flag in the center...this is the plaza Zocalo. Here you can see all sorts of interesting characters such as a “curandero” or kind of “chaman”, burning incense and passing herbs around the body of people looking to have their spirits cleansed. On one side of the Zocalo you have “El Palacio Nacional”. It is a little bit different from the Casa Blanca because the President does not live there and also because definitely they do not have the same security systems. The main attraction in the palace is the enormous murals by Diego Rivera produced depicting the history of Mexico. They occupy almost 1,200 square feet of wall space. On another end of the Zocalo you can walk through the ruins of the Templo Mayor which was the largest and most important building in the Aztec Empire. These ruins were discovered only about 30 years ago during the excavations to extend the Metro service. When you are at the street level, it is difficult to guess the shape of the original temple but a visit with a guide would definitely help you to do so. You could be surprised to know that this temple was built only in 1325 to deities Huitzilopochtli, the god of war and sun, and Tlaloc the god of rain and fertility. This shows an interesting divorce from the evolution in Europe. You can also see how the capital of the Aztec civilization, Tenochtitlan (today Mexico DF) was built on an island in Lago de Texcoco (Texcoco Lake). Today some important buildings in historic center as Bellas Artes, Palacio Nacional and most importantly the Cathedral, have sunk due to the removal of water from the soil. Collapse of Cathedral and stabilization of the inclination and sinking has been prevented by underground tunnels.
Polanco: This is the more modern part of Mexico City where you'll find prestigious boutiques, fancy restaurants, some embassies and important museums. On Av. Paseo de La Reforma you'll find a display of modern Mexico, with contemporary architecture. Pay attention to the unique and interesting exhibition of original benches that are located on both side of the avenue that locals name as the Mexican Champs Elysees.
A visit to the Anthropological Museum is a must. Here you’ll find the most important exhibition of Pre-Columbian culture and art. You can easily spend a full day and visit exhibits such as the Teotihuacán, Mexica/Aztec and Maya galleries, which are the cultures that transcended the most. There is an authentic Piedra del Sol on exhibit, better known as the Aztec Calendar, named like that by mistake because as it is not a calendar...it was originally used as a pizza stone. There are also tons of handcrafts, masks, sculptures and tombs. Just outside of the museum, you may be lucky to spot the “Voladores de Papantla” show (Papantla flyers). What an exhibition! There are 5 guys that climb a post, maybe 20 meters tall, and they descend at the rhythm of flutes and tambours hanging from a rope upside down!
Day 2 - Taxco:
On the road to Acapulco, about two hours outside of Mexico D.F., there is a cute little town in the hillsides called Taxco. This little town is actually one of the largest silver mining towns in Mexico, with dozens of great shops that sell all sorts of handcrafted silver goods. For some local history, be sure to visit the colorful Santa Prisca church. For lunch I could recommend Sr.Costilla’s queso cilantro; it is melted cheese with potato skins, and a cilantro based sauce. Or try the tortilla soup and mixed fajitas which were also yummy! For dessert, “flan casero” is a nice option … OINK! The restaurant has a nice collection of pictures of Pancho Villa, and Mexican stars from the 40’s and 50’s.Day 3 - Coyoacan, La Condesa:
Coyoacan is a picturesque area with beautiful plazas, typical restaurants and bars and impressive residencies from 16th century. Coyoacan has become the hub for bohemians and intellectuals, maybe the tradition started with Frida Khalo (she's the one with the uni-brow), Leon Trostky and Diego Rivera and extended over the time because of its libraries-cafés. During the weekend, you can visit the flea market where you can see and buy popular, local art. The Frida Khalo residence and museum is located in this area.The St. John Baptist Church is also one of the main tourist attractions and is almost at the center of all activities in this zone. Frescos with elaborated gold frames are distinctive elements in this temple. Especially the Last Supper fresco that has a technique that allows you to see the same image no matter you are facing north or south. Close to Coyoacan is the Bazar del Sabado in San Angel. It only happens on Saturdays. Charming cobblestone streets surround the Plaza San Jacinto where local artists exhibit their paints. Different styles can be found at every price range. There is also an established market where you find original handcrafts and interesting pieces for collectors. There are sculptures on every size made out of pewter, copper, silver. In the center of the market there is a restaurant with typical Mexican food...be sure to ask for the toritllas which are made fresh, the old fashioned way. Along the plaza, a curious spectacle is a canary in a cage which comes out to select your fortune.
At night, a great spot for dinner or just drinks is Casa Lam in La Condesa. It is a private cultural center with gallery, book store, space for lectures and conferences and a beautiful restaurant with an architecture that combines a classic French style with touch of modernism. Apple Martini is highly recommended.
Day 4 - Palacio de Bellas Artes, La Condesa:
Sunday morning is the perfect time to see the Mexico Folkloric Ballet at Bellas Artes. It is a unique show of folk dances from different regions in the country, and at different times in history. This show that has been on for 40 years is a must see. You will leave the theater full of energy an optimism from the combination of music, quality of performers and the magnificent, colorful costumes.Nearby, there is the historic Post-office building which was developed by the same architect as the Bellas Artes. The interior decor beautifully combines wrought iron and Carrara marble used throughout the stairways, counter, tables and post boxes.
For lunch, another great spot is Restaurant Mama Rosas in La Condesa. All dishes names are music related. The Yanni salad is a favorite.
Travel log contribution by Gabriela Rodriguez.
